Starting those seeds

Here it is the 11th. of November and I'm already thinking "seed starting" for 2009. Actually, pansies will be planted next week so they'll be ready for transplanting out in late May into containers. The next variety of flowers/cold weather crops will be seeded after the first of the year and it'll go from there!
I'm trying my own seed starting mix this time around, came across some interesting information I'd like to pass on that may be helpful to others in regards to a "soiless" blend:
Sphagnum moss is a dried bog material. It's fairly sterile, can absorb 20 times its weight in water. Use in accordance with vermiculite and perlite.
Peat moss is comprised of decomposed aquatic plants, is very ACIDIC, does have water retaining capabilities.
Vermiculite contains high levels of magnesium and potassium, can hold nutrients, and is good for soil aereation.
Perlite really has nothing to offer but soil aereation, stays cool and is a good additive for seed starting mixtures.
Epsom salts contain magnesium and sulphur, the latter acting as a disease preventitive, and should be added to enhance seed germination.
Now for the "recipe": 2 parts milled sphagnum or peat; 1 part vermiculite; 1 part perlite and a sprinkling of salts. Dampen the mixture, place in *starting containers. Plant seeds, cover with DRY mixture and "water them in" using a fine spray so seeds won't be disturbed. Cover and wait!
*If using very deep containers or cells, fill to within 1 1/2 inches of top with regular lightly fertilized soil, "top off" with the soiless mix instead of filling them completely. Saves on starting mix; seedling roots will penetrate downward into the soil below, saves having to transplant later on.

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I start my seeds on grow mats, for bottom heat, in an unheated south-facing sunroom with large windows and skylights where they depend on sunny days for needed light, extra warmth. When well-established, they're transferred into a sunny unheated greenhouse equipped with a thermostatically controlled heat mat to use if need be, or cover plants..nights..with medium weight floating row covers. I don't use any artificial lighting except for orchids, African violets and zygo cactus cuttings, depend on Ole Sol for everything else.
Expensive grow lights aren't necessary: a simple overhead four foot shop light (that can be adjusted for height above the plants) and cool white tubes will easily do the trick..and IS way less expensive! Set it up on a timer to allow 12-14 hours of light per day (they cost less than $5) keep it about 4-6 inches above growing plants at all times and you're in business! Timer will turn lights off/on automatically, and shop light only costs pennies per day to operate if you decide to go that route. Using this method, you can start plants even in a dark cellar. Hope that answers your question(s), Gardengater. W'snS's