brown streaks in lawn

hello & hope all is well w/ everyone - small question -
it is the last of march here in ohio & i have just applied my 1st fertilizer app to my kentuckey bluegrass - i applied my winter app in oct of last year - i am very fussy about my lawn & it seems that the grass of my neighbors who do not do anything to their lawns is now greener then mine - it just seems a bit slow getting going so far or am i just in too much of a hurry to want it to turn green - we have had a hard winter here this year & i just want to be sure it has not damaged my lawn or it has some type of disease
i always use a slow release in the spring so as not to have the root system grow to fast - any help would be appreciated - thank you - not uch rain as of yet either here in ohio

I don't grow Kentucky bluegrass, it isn't suited to my climate,
but I wonder if you may be fertilizing too early in the season?

I found the following maintenance schedule at this site.

Quote:

Kentucky Bluegrass Maintenance Schedule

This maintenance calendar has been developed for the central third of Illinois. In the northern third of the state, delay the application of this program for 1 to 2 weeks after the suggested starting time. In the southern third of Illinois, begin this maintenance program 1 to 2 weeks earlier than the suggested starting time.

March

1. Clean debris from the turf. Maintain turf at a height of 2 - 3 inches and remove clipping debris. Mow again when turf reaches a height of 3 - 4.5 inches. Continue this regime throughout the year.

April

1. Apply water deeply and infrequently as needed. When precipitation is lacking supply about 1 inch of water per week in the spring and fall, and about 1.5 inches per week in the summer.

2. Check turf for leafspot and control if necessary.

3. Reduce thatch if the layer exceeds 0.5 inch. Core aerifiers or vertical mowers may be used; they can be rented at many large garden centers or rental outlets.

4. Use core cultivation machines to aerify turfs that have become compacted or that drain poorly.

5. In late April, apply preemergence herbicide for control of annual grasses in areas where these weeds are a problem.

May

1. Fertilize in early May with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Slow-release nitrogen forms are preferred.

2. Control broadleaf weeds if present.

June

1. In mid-June, fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Slow-release nitrogen forms are preferred.

2. In mid-June, make a second application of a preemergence herbicide.

August

1. Check for white grub larvae and control if necessary.

September

1. In early September, fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Slow-release nitrogen forms are preferred.

2. Reseed bare or thin areas with improved cultivars of bluegrass.

3. Check for leaf and stem rust on susceptible cultivars; control if necessary.

4. Reduce thatch if the layer exceeds 0.5 inch. Core aerifiers or vertical mowers may be used; they can be rented at many large garden centers or rental outlets.

5. Use core cultivation machines to aerify turfs that have become compacted or that drain poorly.

October-November

1. Apply postemergence herbicides for control of cool season annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. This is the preferred time for treatment.

2. In mid November, fertilize with 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Quick-release nitrogen forms may be used.

3. Irrigate if necessary to insure turf is well hydrated going into winter.

I see that the first recommended fertilization is in May.
I realize that this schedule was developed for Ill rather than Ohio,
but it may still apply?

I know that for many plants, early fertilization encourages tender growth
which tends to be highly susceptible to late frosts,
and even some cool weather fungal diseases.

Just a thought.

_________________

~*~ zuzu ~*~
I put a lot of myself into my garden.