Who's Already Planning for 2008?

Just about anything can be used for containers: old milk cartons cut in half; yogurt cups; styrofoam cups bought at a Dollar Store (love these as they let forming root systems breath); and the big family-sized plastic meat trays..like from Wal Mart..make excellant water-proof holding ones for containers. Make sure drainage holes are punched in bottoms of whatever you chose to start seeds in, tho. Seeds need warmth to germinate: a south-facing window works well or on top of a fridge. As for soil, I would highly recommend a bag of Jiffy Pro Starter Seeding mix as regular potting soils usually contain fertilizers and this can "kill" seeds to a large extent, and NEVER let the soil dry out! Once the "kids" have popped up and get first true leaves, begin fertilizing at regular intervals using ONLY 1/2 the recommended strength on product. Light is an important factor or seedlings will get "leggy". A cheap two-tube shop light, using cool white bulbs, can help here, can be continually adjusted to hang 6-8 inches above them, and supply that light 10-12 hours a day if plants are in a rather dark place. As to when to start various seeds, any good gardening book/catalogue will tell you how many weeks prior to transplanting outdoors. Peppers, I've found, are best started in February, but other things are usually 6 weeks before. If you're planning on starting vines inside (cukes, squashes, etc.), they can be started a month ahead in 3 inch peat pots to eliminate disturbing root systems..which they hate!..plant pot and all at proper time.
There's nothing like growing everything from seed: takes time, patience, and a bit of cash output to get started, but you'll get 2-3 years worth out of one packet of seed and end results are very gratifying! Do, however, plant several seeds per container to insure germination, CUT extra seedlings off at soil level that aren't needed: you'll cry! at each one, but pulling them up will harm forming root system of one you want to raise for production.
I've been at this so long, it's almost a second nature, start growing in November with pansies, continue on right thru May with other varieties of plants. Have had more than my share of flops, but that's part of it all..live and learn when it comes to gardening! Hope I've helped you a bit, Weeds n Seeds

There are several differant kinds that cause tomato problems (the hornworm, fruitworm, pinworm,etc.), the majority of which are caused by a flying critter that lays eggs on the plants and develope from there to do damage to this member of the nightshade family. Crop rotation, or planting somewhere else, is usually recommended in the case of when diseases/viruses have infected the plants, then it IS wise not to plant in the same location for 4 years.
If you're worried the worms might be "overwintering" in the bed and breeding, mixing diatomaceous earth (D.E.) into soil early in season may help the situation: D.E. is an ancient, minute coral containing sharp, spear-like "threads" that puncture the soft bodies of soil borne larva..like snails and cuttworms..and kill them. Because of it's fine composition, great care should be taken NOT to apply D.E. on a windy day, and it's advisable to wear a mask when doing so as the threads can be inhaled and cause damage to the lungs. It can be purchased thru gardening catalogues or nursuries.
Otherwise, using an organic spray, ment especially for the type of worm (a definate indentification of the insect is necessary) you're having problems with, applied at regular intervals throughout the growing season should alleviate the cause of destruction unless it's the hornworm that should be hand-picked off plants and destroyed when found. Hope this helps a bit...