Push Reel Mowers

I starting using a reel mower 2 years ago. i love the new ones. simple to use..it has just enough resistance that makes it a pleasure to use while getting gentle but effective exercise. They're not very expensive. and you don't have to feed it.

No noxious fumes and toxins spewing into the air, no noise pollution, no fooling around with gas and mixes or collecting clippings before they mat on the lawn. Some do come with bags for those of you who don't keep clippings. It is still used by golf courses around the country who prefer the "scissor" cut. Our local courses hire teenagers over the summer to push those babies!the scissor cut doesn't shred the grass and open it up to insect damage and potential for death. The grass clippings left around does nothing but good. there aren't big clumps of clippings sitting around that you have to rake. Little pieces fall by the wayside as you cut.

I remember the reel mower from the 50's - these new eco-friendly productions are so easy to push and you can adjust the height of the bar and the cut. the only maintenance is a sharpening of the blades every few years or so. Yes, it takes longer to cut - you do have to go back over some spots, not like using the big machines. And that's why i love it. Because it makes me Stop And Smell The Roses- and the grass. And how many of us don't need the pleasant exdercise? Bonus: it attracts attention - neighbors and passersby did look at me funny for a while, but they did ask where i got it. Hopefully one more convert... then another

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"In the Garden, my soul is sunshine"

I have a Great States 5 blade reel mower. Learning to use it took me a while.

If the grass gets too long, the lawn has to be gone over several times to get it all cut. But, if I cut in say a north-south path direction and the grass is uneven to where a second pass is required, the second pass must be in a an east-west direction. Trying to cut over the original north-south orientation will not accomplish much. The end result is a lawn with a baseball field looking cut.

In peak growing season, I cut my lawn every three days. If I stay on top of it, I can hustle a little and mow my 1/4 acre lot in about 20 minutes.

Sharpening and adjusting the blades is very important. The manual that came with my mower has tons of great tips and tricks.

Check the adjustment of the blade by putting a piece of newspaper all the way across the stationary blade and rotating the rotating blade so it slices through the paper. The blade should cut the whole way across. If only parts of the paper get cut, then an adjustment is needed. Adjusting the stationary blade takes some patience. On my mower, about 1/32 of a turn on the adjuster makes it go from sloppy loose to being dead tight. Using screwdrivers with large ergonomic handles or a small breaker bar with a screwdriver bit makes the adjusting go a little easier.

As far as sharpening the blades, that is a messy proposition. 1st, remove the wheels and small pinion gears. Then, reverse the sprags that ratchet. The goal is to have the mower free wheel when pushing it forward, and have it spin when pushing it backward. Next, lay down lots of newspaper, coat the rotating blades with fine lapping compound. Over top of some newspaper, push the mower backwards making the blades spin. Push the mower back and forth until the blades spin freely, tighten the adjustment on the stationary blade, apply some more lapping compound and push the mower some more. The goal is to have all the rotating blades contacting the stationary blade at some point through their rotation. Now, clean off the lapping compound with some degreaser, reverse the sprags so the mower works in the forward direction as normal. It should be good to go for another season or two.