This past winter, my brother & I planted a variety of fruit trees. Pear, Orange, Kumquat, Apple, Avocado, Peach, Tangerine, Mandarin. In containers are Star Fruit & Miniature Peach. From the info we obtained at the pre-purchase seminar and info I've found online, most of them are ready for their first fertilization. The two things that are recommended are Cottonseed Meal and an organic fertilizer called Microlife. Neither of us has ever grown fruit trees. I've been doing some research online, and I feel overwhelmed by the abundance of information. I can get both of the recommended fertilizers at a nearby nursery. But they come in 40-50 pound bags. That seems like a lot to try to keep "fresh". Shall I look for something comparable that comes in small portions? And if so, are there any recommendations? My brain is fried from trying to figure it all out, and would truly appreciate some friendly advice. Thanks in advance!
Chery, you are enough south of me and are container growing some of your trees, any advice I give, amy not be that useful to you. I have this nasty habbit I like tiny trees in pots-as bonsai. My soil is mostly made up of coarse sand, sifted bark mulch (1/4" down to 1/16") and a little bit of osmocoat for fertilizer. I do add liquid fertiliser about every two weeks at 1/2 reccomended strength, during the spring and summer. Idon't know if what I do here is applicable to you, there. But it gets around buying bulk fertiliser.
Cheryl, Obviously we don't grow the same fruit trees here as you do, but I would think the principle is the same. I think you will be surprised at how much fertilizer you will need for your trees. At this point they are pretty small So you will not be using the amount we are for a mature tree. My Miracle Grow book directions are as follows: Citrus trees need to be fertilized two or three times from Feb through Sept. Use 1 pound of 10-10-10 per application per tree for the first two years, gradually increasing the amounts each year to between 5 and 7 pounds after about 8 years. soils in some areas are deficient in micronutrients. In these cases the trees will need foliar sprays of such as copper, zinc, manganese, and boron. Don't over fertilize. Too much nitrogen increases the likelihood of disease. Avacado: Use a transplant starter solution at the time of planting, then a balanced food every 2 months except when the tree is in blooms and fruits. hand weed and water frequently until the roots are established, then water only during times of drought. Use foliar sprays to correct mineral deficiencies. Prune to control the size. Maintain a wide circle under the tree canopy, but not touching the trunk. Hope this helps, some. I am not familiar with star fruit, sorry. Apples require much. of everything. spraying, pruning and more spraying to get a crop here. and of course fertilizer, similar to the citrus application. and then some more spraying. every two weeks or every time it rains. Apples are very pesty and disease susceptible for many of the varieties. Hope this helps. got to go. farmers market today. bye!
We had peaches at one time also. They were much the same as the apples, Spray, prune, spray, spray, spray. Watch for borer, scales and mites.yada yada yada! BUT the good news is for you ..... they are much easier to grow than up here. to begin with, select varieties that are disease resistant. Since you already have yours in, work with what you have or re-plant with more resistant varieties. Peaches and nectarines grow best in slightly acidic, moist, rich well drained soil. peaches and nectarines do benefit regular applications of nitrogen fertilizer. A yearly application of 1 to 1 1/2 #'s of actual nitrogen ensures vigorous growth and annual renewal of fruiting wood. A healthy tree grows 12-24" a year.. keep the soil moist, but not water logged. spread several inches of compost or well rotted manure around the tree but away from the trunk. Peaches and nectarines need heavy pruning every year to stimulate the new growth that will bear the fruit the following season. Early each spring as the new growth is just starting and after basic structural and corrective pruning..... remove up to 2/3rds of the shoots that fruited the previous season and leave the thicker of the new growth, heading the longer shoots back half way. Prune harder in the upper, outermost parts of the tree to force fruiting on stouter wood. Prune the trees to an open center and space shoots so air can circulate through the tree. remove water spouts and suckers. thin the fruit to 6" apart after normal fruit drop.( they will at a certain point after pollination drop quite a few of the fruits, which is quite natural and nothing to be alarmed about) prop any sagging branches as the fruit develops and becomes heavy. Prune out sick and/or damages wood immediately, and keep the ground beneath the tree clean. do not leave clippings or fallen leaves and fruit under the tree. In the spring spray with lime sulfur. this helps prevent peach leaf curl. If necessary spray with dormant oil during the winter to control serious infestations of borer, scales and mites. Spray all the bark and the crevices. Spray Bt at bloom time and in summer to control caterpillars and lightly cultivate underneath the tree to destroy any pupae. To protect beneficial insects avoid spraying while the tree is in full bloom. Sorry it has taken me this long to get back to this post, It has been busy for me out in the garden. And since they need a lot of instruction, I was hoping someone else wanted to type this all out. We cut our peach trees down, as they needed more work than the fruit they bore was worth for us. Hopefully your's will do better without as much work. I also would recommend a good fruit production guide to get you started. check with your state extension office for a growing guide. There is not the need to wade through it like you do from a company that sells chemicals for every problem imaginable. hope this isn't more information overload for you. But the fruit trees are a lot of work. More than I think most people realize.
Cheryl, I'm no expert. but here's what I do for the citrus. A wide band of pine straw as mulch, it goes out as far as the branches. Early spring I buy and put down the fruit tree spikes. We have had bumper crops of naval organges, satsuma and mandarins for as long as I do the same song and dance.(10 years) We will let the hose trickle over night if there is no rain for an extended period.
