Lawn Disease and Solutions by Linda Paquette Every lawn, whether new or established, is susceptible to a variety of lawn diseases. Most lawn disease starts with a fungus. Fungi are an oddity because they don't set seeds; instead, they propagate by distributing spores in their surrounding area. Some of the spores are picked up by wind or animals and distributed in new locations. One of the biggest problems in controlling lawn diseases is diagnosis. By the time signs of infection are evident, the fungus that causes it is often difficult to control. Although there are dozens of types of lawn disease, most can be prevented through regular lawn care. Most fungus spores lie dormant until conditions are right for them to grow and infect your lawn. Generally, fungus spores need warm temperatures, a moist environment, a source of nutrition and a susceptible host. Although you can't control the weather, you can deprive them of the nutrients they need as well as a susceptible host. Water your lawn deeply and infrequently to deprive fungus of the damp environment it needs. In addition to helping the prevention of lawn disease, deep and infrequent watering encourages your turf to sink deeper roots. Water only when the surface soil is dry to your touch and then water to a depth of two to three inches. You can gauge how much water your lawn is getting by "planting" a small container (such as a tuna or cat food can) in a corner of your yard. In addition, schedule irrigation in the morning to give excess water a chance to evaporate. Heavy thatch layers (over ½ inch) hold both heat and moisture and provide fungus with a ready supply of nutrients. Thatch also impedes drainage and blocks the airflow your lawn needs to thrive. Annual core aeration in the spring is the best way to control thatch buildup. You can also control thatch during the growing season by maintaining your lawn at a 2 ½ to 3 inch height and cutting no more than ⅓ of the height when you mow. Mowing time is also a good time to check your lawn for signs of disease. "Fairy rings", "frog-eyes", brown patches and other irregularities may signify the beginning of a problem. However, before you purchase a "remedy" it's best to have an infected patch inspected. Dig and take samples to your extension agency or to a recognized lawn care professional. Many strains of fungus quickly develop a resistance to the best fungicides. Controlling active fungus is truly a case where "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Start your lawn disease prevention plan by planting only disease resistant grass hybrids whether beginning a new lawn or reseeding patches of an old one. About the Author Linda is author of The Lawn Care section of Lanwmowers-Guide.com
Very descriptive guide that is easy to understand regardless of what level of gardener you are. Thanks Frank!
Preventing Lawn Diseases Loved the article, very informative. I read that mowing your lawn the right height, watering one inch in the morning and fertilizing with nitrogen can help prevent most lawn diseases. In your opinion should I be doing something else to stop my lawn issues? Thanks in advance moderator's note: removed website link, see point 1.1 of usage rules
Frank great article. We have a mulching mower. But we bag our grass clippings about every 3 or 4 times we mow so the thatch doesn't get so built up. We had a bad fungus problem on our peach trees. Though we where going to loose them. I hate using chemicals but did try one on them last year. Didn't do much. So this year I did some searching online for a natural product I could use. The article I found said that a great fungus killer and controller is Hydrogen peroxide. So before the leaves where out I sprayed the three's down with it from head to toe. Then once the leaves started to emerge I did it again. Then once more when the leaves where fully out. Not one sign of fungus anywhere on the trees. I wonder it would work on lawn fungus as well. It would be worth the try. I guess it kills all kinds of fungus from what the article said.
