Continue from - It's time to transplant the tom ... (gardenstew.com) I am very sad that I have to cancel the salad fest. A week ago I noticed the leaves of the toms start to curve up because of the change in weather. The sun got hotter and caused some forest and peat fire resulting in haze. I guess that the toms are suffering from the extreme heat of the sun so I made them a quick shade to shade them from the noon overhead sun. Then I noticed that one of the plant top most leaves are a bit yellowing and it is only on 1 plant, the one on the right. No I do not water them everyday, only when needed and I do it in the mornings. Then the latest is that some of the fruits are turning dark at the base and it is happening on another plant the one in the middle. The one on the leaf only suffer from curve leaves. They look like they are growing at a slow rate like bush or determinate type. I am so lost! What is happening?
You have some blossom end rot there. That means too little Calcium in your plant bed. Possibly your soil is too acid as well. I am wondering if your soil is too dry, and or , you may have added some fertiliser to dry soil instead of moistening your soil before the application. Those toms you can pick and throw away. If you can get this condition regulated you may not have this with subsequent fruits. Just keep your toms watered regularly, but do not let the roots lie in soggy earth. it is a good idea to try and shade the toms with that sarong. Does it indeed keep the direct sun off the plants most of the time? Those curling leaves are normal for the conditions you have described. The plants are doing this to try and preserve moisture, I believe. I am not sure what is going on with that plant with yellowing leaves at the minute. We must keep an eye on that and see how the condition develops.
Agree with both Clay and Sjoerd. If the soil dries out it will be doomed. They look sunburned -causing yellow leaves, rot and shrinking tissue. Also try using a liquid fertilizer for fruit plants every time you water by half strength. This should help them perk up as long as the root area never dries out.
Thank you for the corrective measures Sjoerd. I am sorry I have no way to check if the soil is acidic or not and I do not use any fertilisers except for compost. Calcium, I only have egg shells and some bone and blood meal. I think I will make use of the bone and blood meal like 1 tablespoon for each plant and another dose in 2 weeks. I hope this is OK. Watering is regular and the roots are not in soggy earth. When I dug this bed I did the water test and it is not water logged. The water just drain off after awhile maybe a couple of hours but I am sure it is not water logged. Before this this bed was planted with long beans. The shade keep the direct sun away for about 3 hours or so, especially when the sun is overhead. We are getting shade temperature of 34°C for the past few days. Yes I'll keep a close watch on the one with the yellowing leaves. Thanks again. Thanks Clay, I am going to do what Sjoerd suggested. Pacnorwest, the soil is not drying out because I check it every day. In the real life the leaves are not burned, sometimes in photo it tell another story. Sorry I do not use any kind of fertilisers except for compost and I water the root ball directly. Thanks for your input.
I'm sorry to hear about your troubles KK. You've worked so hard. It's a tough blow. I agree with all above that it is blossom end rot. Calcium is the biggest culprit, but upon reading I also saw too much nitrogen possibly and fluctuations with watering. With your heat it would be difficult to keep the soil evenly moist I would think. Something I have learned with having cool soils ( the opposite of you but also relevant) is that the temperature of the roots of a tomato ( too cool or too warm) directly impact the foliage and growth. During warm temperatures mulching the roots of the tomato not only helps keep the moisture levels more consistent but also protects them from the extreme heat. Your tomato roots are a little more shallow right now until they develop more, so it may help. I could also explain a bit of the yellowing on top. I know that when my green house gets too hot ( above 30) I shade the roots of my tomatoes with either a drop fabric or wood chips after I water. Then I water the mulch as well to stop it from soaking up the moisture in the soil. I hope that suggestion is helpful. Hang in there KK. You are doing so well with these tomato babies
Boy, oh boy— Mel’s posting is such a good one. I mulch my tom roots also. I use comfrey stalks and leaves. It gets extremely hot in the greenhouse and I do not want to leave the door open for fear of rodents disturbing my plants and toms when I am not present.
KK Just curious is ther a nursery near by where you an buy some veggie starts? Just not from seed… but at least you still can have fresh salads. Depending your climate. Peppers tomatoes can take the heat.. lettuce will bolt in hot temps. Bok Choy and other greens ?
Calcium Nitrate is a fertilizer that is immediately plant available and one of the few forms of immediately available calcium. Immediately available Nitrogen will be in the form of a nitrate or ammonium. The organic methods had to be started long ago to be available today via composting processes.
Oh mine I am so sorry I missed all these comments after my last posting here. Mel I am so sorry to have missed your posting. It is so informative and logical. Wish I had seen it earlier, anyway I have noted it and will practice soil temperature control in my next attempt in growing toms. Thank you so much. Yes Sjoerd I agree, Mel's posting really make a lot of sense. Pacnorwest veggie start is unheard of here. Our fresh salad all come from the supermarket and the only greens I am planting are Asian greens which will grow in our very hot and humid climate. Thanks Dirtmechanic. I have been using only compost beside epsom salt for the chili since I started this garden about 10 years ago. I guess the calcium is still short in my garden even though I have added in lots and lots of egg shell into the compost.
I got started on this because the eggshells in my kitchen composter were not easily turned and went anaerobic for six years or so. I could not believe they werestill there. Yumyum responded to a post I made about other local sources and it turns out organic growers are doing things like soaking eggshells (roasted hard) in vinegar to free the calcium. There are immediately available sources besides calcium nitrate. I have yet to try vinegar and powdered garden lime. I will leave the eggshells in the big compost pile that gets turned.
